Coconut sorbet is one of favorite treats to eat on Guadeloupe. It’s sold every evening buy a myriad of ‘Madames’ roadside and “plaza-side,” but the cool thing about sorbet is that you can make it yourself pretty easily.  The recipe is light on ingredients and made very much to taste; the hardest thing might be getting your hands on a churner.  If you don’t have one at home or supplied by your lodging in Guadeloupe, ask your neighbors.  You never know, and the end result is worth it!

Coconut Sorbet
Mixture
Coconut Milk
Milk (regular or soy) and Sweetened condensed
Lime zest
Cinnamon
Vanilla extract

Equipment
Ice
Rock salt
‘Sorbetière’ (ice cream maker)

Directions
1. Place your coconut milk in a larbe bowl.  Note that the quantity of the other ingredients added will depend on the amount of coconut milk present
2. If volume of coconut milk is sufficient for the desired amount of sorbet, add condensed milk until mixture is a bit sweeter than the desired end product.  If you need more volume, add milk (regular or soy) and gauge  flavor before continuing.                              3. Add lime zest, cinnamon, and vanilla extract to taste.  Again, all flavors should be a bit stronger than the desired end product to allow for a small dissipation in flavor during churning.
4. Add ice and rock salt as appropriate for your churner.  Usually in the space surrounding the mixing vessel.
5. Add sorbet mixture to mixing vessel and churn until mixture is smooth and frozen through out.
6. Enjoy!

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I started out early on my first full day on Dominica.  It turned out to be a good idea as the beginning of my trip was slow going.   It took me a while to find the road leading up to the Central Forest Reserve, but after making a few circles I was on my way*.

Upon finding the forest road, I also found a municipal sign signaling the road was under construction.  They weren’t kidding; avoidance of large potholes and larger machinery was key.   The construction ran from the beginning of the road to the “Pont Cassé,” a mountain round point that is an important landmark for travelers to internalize.  I probably never broke 20 mph while traveling the road.  This was a blessing in disguise, as it allowed me to stop quickly when I came upon a huge green house as I rounded a corner.

The future guesthouse happened to have been built by a Rasta contractor named Charles and his architect brother with the help 18 other Dominicans.  Charles let me have a look around his expansive garden and gave me some fruits and vegetables to take on my journey.  Comprised of 6 apartments of varying sizes, this guesthouse will likely be open to visitors by the end of summer.  I continued on to the Pont Cassé and veered right towards the Emerald pool.  This is one of the most well know attractions on Dominica, known for the piercing green waters the flow under the cascade.  It was another cloudy day, so the color wasn’t as brilliant as possible, but it was worth the quick stop.

From the Emerald Pool I continued on to exit the forest reserve and drive along the coast.  I traveled up to Melville Hall Airport, if for nothing else to know it’s situation.  It was here I began my day’s descent, driving back through Carib Territory.   I was excited, as I hadn’t made it to this side of the island on my last visit.

The Carib Territory is comprised of the land of eight villages that was set-aside for the Caribbean natives in 1903.  Dominica has the largest population of Caribs in the world, with about 3000 residing on Dominica’s North Eastern coast.  There is a tourist village you can pay to enter, but an equally touching experience comes from simply driving though the region.   The altitude is high, the foliage lush and green, and the sense — mystic.  You see immediately the change in the people as you enter the territory; you see in their skin the history of the land.  They are a people untainted, seemingly pure descendants truly of those you see pictured in museums and books.  I, for one, have no pictures of the territory because it didn’t seem right.  These weren’t people smoking, dancing, or doing anything stereotypical or ceremonial.  These were people going about their daily lives — playing ball in the road or walking to the market.  Nevertheless, there is simply a palpable mysticism in the Carib territory that is worth experiencing.   I dare you to got there and then call me crazy.

As much as I enjoyed my time in the territory it was time to head back towards home — again through the forest reserve.  I took a different road back, passing some great rivers, and making some stops along the way.  The first was Spanny Falls, a waterfall with a nice basin that is accessible by stairs.  It also feature’s a small produce market and seating area that is well frequented on hot days.

The next stop was Diamond River, which has several rapids emptying into small pools  that are perfect for bathing.  I could see it being a very fun location for a hot day, which again, it wasn’t.

I continued downward towards the town of Layou; passing the Layou River on the way.  I ended up coming across the outlet where the river met with the sea.  I t was the perfect last stop for the day. As I sat on the hood of my rented 4×4 and watched the water flow back and forth I felt good.  I felt a sense of calm, satisfaction and unity, as if all the sights I’d seen, and waterways I’d followed were present and connected.

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*It’s worth saying that he roads and subsequent turns leading to attractions are not always marked and it can easy to get turned around.  Some recommend having a guide when traveling Dominica.  I don’t happen to think it’s necessary, but can see why this advice is given.  If choosing to travel solo, be extremely vigilant when following the map or directions.

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Based in Loubiere, just south of Rousseau I headed south my first afternoon on the island.  I traveled the entire southeastern coast passing quaint seaside villages like Point Michel.  Finally I arrived in Scott’s Head, a village situated on the southeastern tip of the island.  There you can continue driving down a small peninsula to the ruins of a British Fort.  On a nice day the Fort would be great for some shots of the house-dotted hill sides, but it was a cloudy day.

On my way back up the coast I stopped at Chez Wen a little restaurant of local and French-inspired specialties.   I grabbed a chicken dinner and headed for the sulfur springs to have a look around.  You usually need a site pass to enter the area, but as it was the late afternoon the attendant let me pass.  You can take a well-kept path up to three warm water pools or continue hiking to reach the steaming, smelly sulfur deposits above.  I hiked up before returning to bathe in the pools.  The water is very pleasant and surprisingly odorless.  In the pools I met a family who’d brought along sulfur mud, which is good for skin conditions and general skin health.  As a result of their generosity I had an unexpected mud facial.

I left the pools for Champagne Beach, a much heralded attraction on the islan that did not disappoint.  Now I make it no secret that I prefer the river to the beach any day, but Champagne might be my favorite beach to date.  It has great snorkeling, bubbling underwater volcanic vents, and none of the usual sandy repercussions.  I spent a good hour or so in the water looking at a myriad of fish as I swam along the shore.  At the end of the beach is where you find the underwater vents that make it seem as if you’re swimming in Champagne,  after my swim I stayed to watch the sunset before returning home for the evening.

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Dominica is the closest thing to Eden on earth that I have ever seen. It is billed the nature island as a result of its largely undeveloped natural landscape that is carved by 365 rivers and home to some of the best diving in the world.   The lush green beauty and varied vistas are at times literally breathtaking.  I find my pictures only due the landscape partial justice.

Dominica is a former British Commonwealth home to inhabitants. The currency is the East Caribbean Dollar and a good deal for Americans these days at 1:2.67.  Dominica is  accessible via American and Liat Airlines as well as by ‘Express des Iles’ ferry service from Guadeloupe.

Renting a car or hiring a tour operator is essential to really seeing what the island has to offer.  Driving there is not for the faint of heart though.  First of all, as a result of it’s British past, vehicles travel on the left side of the road.  Roads are can be steep, curvaceous or under construction to boot.  This is not to deter personal exploration, but to encourage extra vigilance.

Over the next few posts I’ll detail the sites I visited over my 4 day sojourn.  Enjoy the photos, and as always, comments are welcome!

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Easter is a big deal on Guadeloupe.  Schools are closed for two weeks and wherever you there’s some talk of what people are doing for the Holiday.  The two biggest staples of Easter on Guadeloupe are camping and crab.  Loads of people depart for local beaches, usually departing the Wednesday or Thursday before the big day.  If not camping, the Crab Festival in Morne-a-L’eau is a big draw.  Again, the crab festival is really island-wide; for Sunday dinner  many serve the traditional pairing of Callaloo and Chiquetaille de Morue (Stewed greens with crab and morue salad).

I spent Easter with friends and their children at the Anse de Illet (pictured).  Situated in Dehaies, Anse Illet is a lesser known beach that is great for esacping the crowds of Anse de Cligny (main beach in the city).  It was a great weekend filled with fishing, crab hunting, and playing in the waves, sand and sun.

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The municipal beach of Gosier is one of the best on Grande Terre and easy to access to boot.  It is both beautiful and well equipped, featuring showers, night lighting, and a range of food and shopping options.  It’s a big draw for locals who exercise at the beach as well as sunbathing tourists, so beware of Sundays especially.  

If visiting for the day, consider taking a 6 Euro boat ride (roundtrip) to the Ilet de Gosier (pictured above in background). This tiny island off the beach is a great side destination for picnics or if you just want to have a little more beach space to yourself.

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I spent this past Sunday at a river in the town of Goyave.  We spent the entire day swimming, talking, and of course – eating.  Having packed in fresh fish, vegetables, and breadfruit, we made a great meal that was eaten riverside.   A wonderfully typical Sunday in my book.  

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Carnival progressed at a lightening pace after Sunday evening.  The late morning and early afternoons of Monday-Wednesday are spent at Akiyo’s headquarters.  Members get togethe to cook a communal meal and prepare costumes and props for coming evenings; so excuse my lack of posting during this period.

As Monday’s attire was the Akiyo “triko” (t-shirt in Creole), we spent much of the day preparing for Tuesday’s outing.  Mas it’s self was “bien passé” (well-passed) and I felt really good while marching.  We left late in the evening at about 11:00 p.m. and everyone seemed in good spirits.  After returning to the local we stayed up laughing and talking before taking a brief rest before starting Mardi Gras.

On Mardi Gras we began the day at 6:00 a.m. We marched in pajamas through the countryside of Abymes before a breakfast of fruit, bokits and hot chocolate.  Most people returned home for a quick nap before coming back to the headquarters around 3:00 p.m. to prepare for Mardi Gras evening.  While some Mardi Gras we wear clothing stuffed brim with pillows to simulate fat; this year took a different direction.  As the afternoon pressed on we began changing into tribal wear of red, green, yellow, or black.  We then slathered ourselves in pure cane syrup or charcoal suspended in oil;  some people used a mixture of both.  The story around the local is that we do this in honor of runaway slaves, as some covered themselves in one of these substances when making their escapes.

The Carnival period concluded on the night of Ash Wednesday. In honor of this we dressed in all black or black and white to simulate funeral attire.  The crowd is especially large and bositerous on this evening as everyone has one more night of fun before lent begins.  You could see the sheer numbers as we filled the plaza in front of the “Palace of Justice” at the final pause. Just before the last leg of the march began we burned an effigy of Vaval, the spirit of Carnival (pictured first).  We marched quickly to headquarters for one last dance frenzy before heading in for the night.It was a fitting end to my fourth Carnival on Guadeloupe and was definitely a adrenaline-driven, sweaty, good time.

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Carnival has officially begun! The four-day celebration got under way with Dimanche Gras, and a huge parade in Point-a-Pitre.  Thousands of people lined the streets and dozens upon dozens of Carnival groups passed through out the afternoon and early evening.  Akiyo left it’s headquarters around 5:30 p.m. dressed up like all different sorts of professions.  The unifying factor was a headdress featuring a map of Guadeloupe decorated with two eyes.  Though we marched the usual distance, we did so slower than usual to accommodate the traffic from the other groups and to stop to drum and dance for the crowd.

The event will progress quickly after this point, continuing this evening with Lundi Gras and another march and street fair.   This evening we will depart in red, green, yellow and black covered in cane syrup or charcoal.  After we return and clean up, we’ll stay up all night at Akiyo headquarters before rising at 5 a.m. to march in pajamas on fabled Mardi Gras.    Mardi Gras evening the street party and parades continue this time with clothing stuffed brim with pillows to simulate fat.  The Carnival period will conclude Ash Wednesday with the burning of the effigy of Vaval, the carnival king.  In honor of this we we will dress as if attending a funeral and have one more night of fun before lent begins.

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In  Creole “timoun” means child.  On the Saturday before Carnival there is typically a Mas held just for the children early in the afternoon.  The kids march a shortened loop accompanied by drummers.  The children dress up in bright costumes some traditional, some repurposing Haloween costumes.  Either way it is fun to behold and looks like a great way to get an early start on an Island tradition.

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