Though it was incredibly sad to leave Guadeloupe, I am happily back in the Bay Area with my family.
Thanks to all who looked in on my blog and continued to do so during my dry spells! I hope to do some throwback post amidst my job search, so I’ll send out bulletins when I have something new.
Thanks again!
The list of items you can derive from a coconut tree (“pyekoko” in Creole) seems never-ending. I’ve noted the use of coconut milk in cooking and you should already know that mixing coconut cream with fresh pineapple and rum makes a mean Pina Colada. I’ve previously mentioned coconut water along with coconut sorbet and personally have a growing collection of bracelets, earrings and other accessories made from the shells of dry coconuts (“koko sec”). Recently, at a Creole cultural celebration I was taught to make another coconut product, a hat woven of coconut leaves.
The cultural celebration took place in Petit Bourg and was hosted by a local teachers union. The event featured various areas where attendees could partake in different activities such as toy making, basket weaving, and, of course, hat making. The gentleman at the hat station was very helpful and demonstrated the whole process; it actually wasn’t too hard after you got the hang of it.
The process starts with an entire coconut branch that is split sown the middle. A portion of one of the halves is cut roughly two inches more than the desired band of the hat. The stalk is then stripped down to about a quarter-inch thick; the shreds of stalk removed are used to tie the band in a circular shape. At this point, the weaving begins; it can be done in a variety of patterns. I was shown a weaving method that basically braided three leaves at a time in a circular pattern to make the hat’s brim. You separate, then gather the remaining lengths of the leaves at the point of the hat and weave downward to complete the shape. When satisfied with the downward weaving the remaining leaves are neatly clipped in conclusion.
We are on the look out for some more big branches to make a few more hats and a nice “How-to.”
Editor’s Note: I am aware that the hat I made is WAY to small. There weren’t enough branches for everyone to make a hat their head’s size; hence the search for more branches.
So our rag-tag, Guadeloupean crew (myself, friend Andrea (pictured), and cousin Reggie) recently discovered a new beach called “Plage de Babin.” This isn’t your ordinary sun, sand and snorkel beach; it’s where Guadeloupeans go to find mud - yep, mud.
Mud baths are the draw to this spot in Morne-a-L’eau and whole families stop by to partake in the messy fun. You wade out into the water until you start to feel the slick mud between your toes. You go under for a few handfuls of the gray muck and carry it back to the shore. There, you slather a thin layer of mud all over your body and wait until it dries before rinsing off. The whole process is pretty fun and your skin feels extremely soft and smooth after the fact.
The mud is good for your hair as well; though I wouldn’t recommend it for people with locks. It takes days to get rid of all the little rocks and shells – not fun.
So I came to
The Acomat waterfall can be found easily in Pointe Noire. It is a short hike down from the reach the waterfall and basin. Acomat is well-known for the young men move effortless across the rock faces making slides and/or rock jumping into the basin from ridiculous heights (video to come). My cousin Reggie, houseguest Ryan, and I scaled the rocks for a slide. It was pretty fun, but I think once is enough for me!
The large fresh produce market of Pointre-a-Pitre can be intimidating. Dozens a vendors, mostly women, selling many of the same items vie for your attention with calls of “Vini Doudou”, which means, come here sweetheart, in Guadeloupean Creole. If you can handle the pressure you can by some good produce at a good price. The vendors are usually very knowledgeable and helpful and will aide you in choosing the best items depending on when you want to eat them. It’s best to pick one vendor and buy everything there, it gives you more leverage on the price. If you are simply visiting the market DO NOT take pictures of the vendors without asking and/or buying something. They are quick to cove their faces and cart and will berate you in Creole if you persist. Fair warning.
Sorry for the lapse! It turns out my hard drive died and it will be at least another two weeks until I’m back blogging regularly.
Cross your fingers for me!!!
“Dimanche Gras” or “Fat Sunday” marks the beginning of 4 days of Carnival madness. Since it was the first day of the celebration and the organization is celebrating its 30th anniversary, Akiyo featured a special costume that was top secret until Wednesday of this week. The costume was meant to represent the dress of individuals before the slave trade. The parade was preceded by a large boat, constructed to represent a slave ship. Individuals wore the minimum of clothing, tops and loincloth-like bottoms for women and simply loincloths for the men. We were all covered in in either a black pr red substance. Ruku, a seed mixed with oil, gave the red color while a mixture made from coal made the black. Everyone was amped up and, as usual, there was a lot of chanting and dancing going on amongst the parade or “Mas,” as it its called. I included some video so you get the idea.
For some unknown reason, I’ve really been craving breadfruit recently. So when Andrea and I passed a market selling them for a seemingly cheap 2 Euros a piece, we picked some up. With a long afternoon of crafting Carnivale costumes ahead, we decided to make a special lunch to fuel our creative energy.
I didn’t really know how to cook breadfruit, but Andrea, being from Trinidad, knows a number of different ways. Apparently you can simply boil it or fry it until tender and season it to taste. You can also make a dish called “Oil Down” (believe me, I asked the origin of the name, she wasn’t sure). Oil Down consists of breadfruit, pigtail, onion, tomato, garlic, thyme, salt, and pepper stewed in coconut milk. Any other salted or smoked meat or fish would work in this dish and spinach is often added. Simple directions follow:
1) In a large pot, add onions, tomatoes, seasonings and any other vegetables you might want to include and sautee the mixture in the oil of your choice until the vegetables are tender.
2) Add breadfruit and allow it to simmer among vegetables until it begins to soften.
3) Add meat or fish and allow to simmer for five-ten minutes
4) Add coconut milk and allow to stew for about 30 minutes until breadfruit and meat/fish is tender.
5) Serve hot and enjoy!
