Ha!
I already gave you all the rundown on mud baths at Plage de Babin, but this recent picture was just too funny…
Pictured: Sherilee (Trinidad), Nicole (New York), Andrea (Trinidad)
Travel With Candace
Discover Guadeloupe…And anywhere else I go.
The wonderful world of the “Pyekoko”
The list of items you can derive from a coconut tree (“pyekoko” in Creole) seems never-ending. I’ve noted the use of coconut milk in cooking and you should already know that mixing coconut cream with fresh pineapple and rum makes a mean Pina Colada. I’ve previously mentioned coconut water along with coconut sorbet and personally have a growing collection of bracelets, earrings and other accessories made from the shells of dry coconuts (“koko sec”). Recently, at a Creole cultural celebration I was taught to make another coconut product, a hat woven of coconut leaves.
The cultural celebration took place in Petit Bourg and was hosted by a local teachers union. The event featured various areas where attendees could partake in different activities such as toy making, basket weaving, and, of course, hat making. The gentleman at the hat station was very helpful and demonstrated the whole process; it actually wasn’t too hard after you got the hang of it.
The process starts with an entire coconut branch that is split sown the middle. A portion of one of the halves is cut roughly two inches more than the desired band of the hat. The stalk is then stripped down to about a quarter-inch thick; the shreds of stalk removed are used to tie the band in a circular shape. At this point, the weaving begins; it can be done in a variety of patterns. I was shown a weaving method that basically braided three leaves at a time in a circular pattern to make the hat’s brim. You separate, then gather the remaining lengths of the leaves at the point of the hat and weave downward to complete the shape. When satisfied with the downward weaving the remaining leaves are neatly clipped in conclusion.
We are on the look out for some more big branches to make a few more hats and a nice “How-to.”
Editor’s Note: I am aware that the hat I made is WAY to small. There weren’t enough branches for everyone to make a hat their head’s size; hence the search for more branches.
Damoiseau Distillery
Damoiseau is the most popular brand of rum to drink on Grande-Terre. Situated in Moule, the distillery that produces the rum is an interesting place to visit. Rum was a driving force of the slave trade in the Caribbean region. Much of the rum was made with the assistance of mills of various types. The distillery houses the only old-fashioned, functioning windmill on Guadeloupe and provides a French-only display that overviews the different types of mills and how they work. The display also sheds light on the history of rum on Guadeloupe and the steps of the distillation process.
The actual “tour” of the distillery is pretty much you wandering around, directed by occasional signs that explain the part of the process you are viewing. Visitors definitely see how rum is made up close and personal; from huge trucks dumping loads of sugar cane into the new age mill to the bottling and packaging processes. It’s interesting to see all the machines in action, but honestly, I don’t think the public should be able to be so close to the product with such little supervision (see picture above). That aside, if you like industry, rum (free tastings!), and/or really loud places, the Damoiseau distillery is definitely for you.
Chute de Carbet
Found in Capesterre Belle-Eau, there are three Carbet waterfalls you can visit on
Carnaval a Morne-a-L’eau
In the weeks leading up to the actual 4 days of Carnival many cities host Carnival celebrations and parades. Organizers invite Carnival groups from all over the island to participate and give their citizens a treat. The groups march through the city and people line the streets and their balconies to watch. The march usually concludes at a central location, likely the town plaza, where one can find the bulk of spectators, vendors, and general excitement.
I live in Morne-a-L’eau and though my group, Akiyo, was marching I decided to watch the parade and experience my town’s celebration. You don’t get to see much of other groups when you are marching, so for me it was a new experience. Everyone was in a festive mood and it was fun to see my students out of class. They were running around everywhere! It was a great atmosphere and I’m glad I took the time to watch; though I did catch some friendly flak for not marching.
So what’s a Léwòz?
I had repeatedly seen the term “Léwòz” written on event posters and fliers, but never quite knew what the term entailed. I attended my first Léwòz recently and found it to be fun and interesting.
At base, a Léwòz is a coming together of people who enjoy the celebration of Guadeloupean music and culture. It is an all-night drum/dance fest that starts around 9:00 and can end as late as 6:00 in the morning. Food and drinks are sold, people socialize, dance, and generally have a good time. Traditional Gwo-Ka music is played and continues almost non-stop with drummers ans singers switching off as needed. Anyone can dance in the middle of a huge circle created by the crowd, as sown in the video above.
Carnaval 1/27
So my legs still hurt from this week’s Carnival march. The Akiyo group marched from Point-a-Pitre to Baie-Mahult and back, which is about 16 kilometers or 10 miles!
The costumes this week were made from dried banana leaves and people wore bull horns (or something of that shape). There were some really interesting variations on the costume. Unfortunately my digital camera of 4 years died on me Sunday night so I have no new photos. I don’t even have a picture of my own costume! Anywhoo, I included some images from 2006 so you get the general idea.
C’est Carnaval!
Carnival (aka Carnaval) season has begun on across the Caribbean, which basically means every week leading up to the week long celebration (Feb 2nd-6th ) there are street parties around Guadeloupe and many islands alike. People gather to watch the various Carrnival groups march and sing in costume. I march with a group called Akiyo, one of the largest and oldest groups on the island.
While some groups have very elaborate costumes, Akiyo, by its very mission, is a group of the people. Akiyo calls for only simple, natural and/or reusable items so anyone can participate. There is a different theme every week. This Sunday the costumes were made out of green vegetation; the variety wasn’t important but one type of vine seemed to prevail. My friend, Andrea, and I made costumes of mostly palm leaves.
Participating in Carnival is a great time. You march, sing, and dance through the streets of a city; in my case Les Abymes and Pointe-a-Pitre. There is a group of drummers at the heart of the group drumming a constant rhythm. The streets are lined with people and vendors along the route. Young boys and some teenagers make whips which crack loudly in all directions. The air is filled with smoke from from the mixture of plants and sap that a group member carries at the head of the parade.
The march is probably about three miles in length and there are two breaks around 30 minutes long for rest and socializing. Food vendors follow the group so you can buy bokits, pastries, drinks etc. Right before each rest stop and the end of the march there is a drumming/dancing frenzy. My legs are pretty sore from it all and I lost my voice a bit, but it’s all worth it!
Each week I’ll let everyone know what Akiyo, and I in turn, are up to. Unfortunately the season is shorter than usual because Carnival is falling on the first week of February. It usually seems to fall around the third week of the month. Regardless, it should be a lot of fun.
Wish me luck!!
A Visit to the Napa Valley
During my recent trip back to California for the holidays I went wine tasting in Napa Valley for the first time. The drive up is beautiful, as the bare vines and oak trees add many interesting textures and patterns to the hill filled landscape. Lisa, my best friend, and I weren’t expecting to find the area so beautiful on a gray and gloomy day. We took a day trip, leaving San Francisco at about 9:00 A.M., so we only had a chance to hit a few wineries during our visit. Note that most locations seem to close around 6:00 or 7:00 P.M.
Our first stop was Chimney Rock, which is situated on the well-known Silverado Trail. I’m not partial to reds so I can’t rave about the selection, but the staff was extremely pleasant and helpful. Our shared tasting of 3 Cabernet Sauvignons was very reasonable at 15 dollars and we both received a free wine glass. Our pourer also gave us some recommendations of wineries to visit for good whites, which lead us to our next tasting.
Our second stop was Mumm, which specializes in sparkling wines. Mumm has a beautiful campus that one can view from the floor-to-ceiling windows that surround the tasting room. The winery also features a very knowledgeable and helpful staff who are happy to give recommendations in regards tastings and other locations to visit. Lisa and I agreed that there was no going halfsies on “champagne,” but our 3-variety tastings were still affordable at 15 dollars a piece (the tasting packages ranged from 5 to 20 dollars in total). Considering our server gave us an extra glass on the house and we could have taken a free tour, 30 dollars spent was well worth our while. We missed our tour, sidetracked by playing with the beautiful Akita who was advertising charity calendars next to us.
Our last stop turned out to be my new favorite place, Domaine Chandon (pictured above). My mother is a member at Chandon and it turns out members can receive a free basic tour and glass of champagne for two anytime one visits. Otherwise, the basic tour is 7 dollars, while tour/tasting packages range from 15-30 dollars. The campus and lounge are truly exquisite and created a tremendous atmosphere for meeting new people or simply traversing the oak-dotted grounds. The basic tour was a bit short, but still very interesting. It is awe-inspiring to learn how much goes into producing the many varieties of wines and champagnes available. Our guide, like all other staff we encountered, was great; he answered all my questions with enthusiasm (to Lisa’s chagrin, ha!). Photos
Surely, it is worth spending a couple of days in the Napa Valley if a chance arises. All of the wineries seem to offer shipping services, so one wouldn’t have to have to risk bottles breaking in your luggage or being thrown out at security checkpoints if out-of-towners discover a must-have variety. I will definitely go again one day with a significant other. It’s not that Lisa isn’t great fun; I can just imagine a gray snuggley day tasting wine and “champagne” would be great with a special someone - especially if topped off with a romantic dinner.
Editors Note:
Mumm recommendations - Various Blanc de Blancs and Blanc de Noirs
Chandon recommendations - Étoile Brut and Étoile Rosé (sparkling wines)
Jazz à Point-à-Pitre
Point-à-Pitre’s 12th annual Jazz Festival took place this weekend at the Place de La Victoire. The Place was beautiful, draped in lights for Christmas, and filled with people and vendors. The performances begin at 8:00 each evening. Hugh Masekela was the biggest name and he delivered a great set Saturday night. His performance was stopped briefly due to rain, but he played almost two hours. The stage was surrounded by tents featuring artisans of various types. Their creations were beautiful and I definitely left a few Euros lighter. I’ve included the line up and link below. It’s definitely an event worth attending.
Friday, December 14, 2007
Serge Alidor (Caribbean Jazz)
Jocelyn Menard and the Gwanada Big Band (Caribbean Jazz)
Saturday, December 15, 2007
Thurgot Theodat (Hatian Jazz)
Hugh Masekela (South African Jazz)
Sunday, December 16, 2007
Nguyen Le (Asian Fusion)
William Cepeda Afro-Rican Jazz Orchestra (Afro-Rican Jazz)
