Damoiseau Distillery

Damoiseau Damoiseau2

Damoiseau is the most popular brand of rum to drink on Grande-Terre. Situated in Moule, the distillery that produces the rum is an interesting place to visit. Rum was a driving force of the slave trade in the Caribbean region. Much of the rum was made with the assistance of mills of various types. The distillery houses the only old-fashioned, functioning windmill on Guadeloupe and provides a French-only display that overviews the different types of mills and how they work. The display also sheds light on the history of rum on Guadeloupe and the steps of the distillation process.

The actual “tour” of the distillery is pretty much you wandering around, directed by occasional signs that explain the part of the process you are viewing. Visitors definitely see how rum is made up close and personal; from huge trucks dumping loads of sugar cane into the new age mill to the bottling and packaging processes. It’s interesting to see all the machines in action, but honestly, I don’t think the public should be able to be so close to the product with such little supervision (see picture above). That aside, if you like industry, rum (free tastings!), and/or really loud places, the Damoiseau distillery is definitely for you.

Chute de Carbet

 

 

Carbet Hike Carbet Fall

Found in Capesterre Belle-Eau, there are three Carbet waterfalls you can visit on Guadeloupe, logically called the first second, and third “Chutes de Carbet.” You must traverse the rain forest to arrive at any of the chutes, but the hike is beautiful and the trail is well-kept for the most part. The third waterfall is actually the closest with a hike of 45 minutes each way. The first and second falls are further away, at s and minutes each way respectively. Though smaller than the others, third waterfall is bigger than any I have seen so far and makes for great pictures. You can swim in the basin of the fall, which is nice after the hike. Just don’t get attached to that clean feeling; you’ll arrive back at your car pretty muddy if it has rained anytime recently!

Pointe de Chateau

 

PdChateau 2

The “Pointe de Chateau” is found at the most southwest tip of Guadeloupe. It is generally not to long of a stop, as there is not much to do once you are there. But it is a nice place to visit if you like views, landscape photos and the like. After hiking to the large cross overlooking the point, you can see for miles, a distance that includes the nearby island of Desirade.

A Visit to the Napa Valley

Domaine Chandon 2

During my recent trip back to California for the holidays I went wine tasting in Napa Valley for the first time. The drive up is beautiful, as the bare vines and oak trees add many interesting textures and patterns to the hill filled landscape. Lisa, my best friend, and I weren’t expecting to find the area so beautiful on a gray and gloomy day. We took a day trip, leaving San Francisco at about 9:00 A.M., so we only had a chance to hit a few wineries during our visit. Note that most locations seem to close around 6:00 or 7:00 P.M.

Our first stop was Chimney Rock, which is situated on the well-known Silverado Trail. I’m not partial to reds so I can’t rave about the selection, but the staff was extremely pleasant and helpful. Our shared tasting of 3 Cabernet Sauvignons was very reasonable at 15 dollars and we both received a free wine glass. Our pourer also gave us some recommendations of wineries to visit for good whites, which lead us to our next tasting.

Our second stop was Mumm, which specializes in sparkling wines. Mumm has a beautiful campus that one can view from the floor-to-ceiling windows that surround the tasting room. The winery also features a very knowledgeable and helpful staff who are happy to give recommendations in regards tastings and other locations to visit. Lisa and I agreed that there was no going halfsies on “champagne,” but our 3-variety tastings were still affordable at 15 dollars a piece (the tasting packages ranged from 5 to 20 dollars in total). Considering our server gave us an extra glass on the house and we could have taken a free tour, 30 dollars spent was well worth our while. We missed our tour, sidetracked by playing with the beautiful Akita who was advertising charity calendars next to us.

Our last stop turned out to be my new favorite place, Domaine Chandon (pictured above). My mother is a member at Chandon and it turns out members can receive a free basic tour and glass of champagne for two anytime one visits. Otherwise, the basic tour is 7 dollars, while tour/tasting packages range from 15-30 dollars. The campus and lounge are truly exquisite and created a tremendous atmosphere for meeting new people or simply traversing the oak-dotted grounds. The basic tour was a bit short, but still very interesting. It is awe-inspiring to learn how much goes into producing the many varieties of wines and champagnes available. Our guide, like all other staff we encountered, was great; he answered all my questions with enthusiasm (to Lisa’s chagrin, ha!). Photos

Surely, it is worth spending a couple of days in the Napa Valley if a chance arises. All of the wineries seem to offer shipping services, so one wouldn’t have to have to risk bottles breaking in your luggage or being thrown out at security checkpoints if out-of-towners discover a must-have variety. I will definitely go again one day with a significant other. It’s not that Lisa isn’t great fun; I can just imagine a gray snuggley day tasting wine and “champagne” would be great with a special someone - especially if topped off with a romantic dinner.

Additional photos 

Editors Note:

Mumm recommendations - Various Blanc de Blancs and Blanc de Noirs

Chandon recommendations - Étoile Brut and Étoile Rosé (sparkling wines)

Toussaint

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I’m coming up on the last few days of the school vacation for All Saints’ Day or “Toussaint” as it’s known in French. Falling on November 1st, All Saints’ Day is a Catholic Holiday recognizing all saints and martyrs, known or unknown link. In Guadeloupe the Holiday is a two-day celebration that spurs big family dinners and trips to local cemeteries where many candles are laid on the graves of departed loved ones. This tradition isn’t sad or morbid, actually, the sheer number of people, the joyous camaraderie, and numerous vendors make for a party around and in the cemetery.

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The festivities in Morne a L’eau, where I’m stationed as a teacher, are some of the most famous on the island due to the town’s unique and expansive, black and white cemetery. It seemed like the whole commune came out to celebrate on Friday evening; I saw a number of my students and their families. As I ascended through the narrow walkways and stairways that pass between the tombs I was amazed at the scene. What seemed like thousands of candles bathed the cemetery in reddish glow and illuminated the hundreds of people that sat, walked, and visited amongst the graves late into the evening.

Witnessing this tradition in action was definitely one of the most interesting experiences I have had thus far. Additional photos from the cemetery can be found here.

Editor’s Note: Some of the pictures in the album are a bit blurry due all the different levels of light but I thought they might still be of interest.

La Plage à Port Luis

Port Luis Plage

Guadeloupe is actually comprised of five islands: Basse-Terre, Grande-Terre, Le Désirade, Les Saintes, and Marie-Galante.  I live on Grand-Terre, which is home to a number of nice beaches. Port Luis is one of the smaller towns on Grande-Terre and the beach there is beautiful, clean and never too crowded.  Port Luis’ beach is truly a locals’ haven and quite a different scene then the beaches of St. Anne and Gosier, the tourist hubs of Grande-Terre.  There are few vendors on site, so bring snacks if you want to be sure you’ll have something to munch on.  Also note that parking is 2 Euros per car on weekdays.  Beyond those points, just know it’s a beautiful place to spend the day.

La Domaine de Valombreuse

Valombreuse - Park

The “Domaine de Valombreuse” is a large garden park situated in Petit-Bourg. It is a beautiful setting that features over 300 specimens of the plants, flowers, and trees native and imported to Guadeloupe. The park also houses live animal displays, a children’s play area, and provides access to La Chute de Valombreuse (The Valombreuse Waterfall).

Walking around the garden you feel a great sense of calm. It is a seriously wonderful place for a hot day, as all the plants and trees provide the pathways with an abundance of shade. The various plants have placards explaining their origins, uses, and patterns of growth. Expectantly, the information is available in French only. As such, those less than fluent should bring a dictionary and lots of time if total understanding is desired.

The garden is well laid out and leads you through the foliage and fish pools to the path that descends to the waterfall. It would be prudent to know beforehand that the hike to the fall is about 30 minutes long and involves several rope assisted stream crossings, but I missed that part on-line. Note that the trail (if you call being led through the rain forest by a yellow string trail) gets a bit muddy and slippery after heavy rains. Rains just like the ones we’ve been having off and on for a week!

Hike Valombreuse big Valombreuse Chute

I don’t have anything against hiking, but if I’d known I was going to be traversing mud, enormous tree roots, and streams I might not have worn flip-flops. As a result, the hike was definitely slow-going, but I didn’t mind. The towering Mangroves, Palms and Bamboo are beautiful, as is “La Chute Valombreuse.” Plus the final reward, of swimming in a water-fall fed, fresh water pool is the most refreshing thing ever (think comic book guy voice)! It made me sad to have to hike back up to the park and leave some of that fresh, clean feeling behind.

Though I can’t recommend wearing thong sandals for this hike, my flip-flops worked out OK in the end. While most people returned from the hike and cringed at their SUPER muddy sneakers, I dunked my flops in the stream nearest to the trail’s exit and they were as good as new.

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Editor’s Note: I must give props to my pink flip-flops, purchased in 2005 from a dollar store in the Historic Marktplatz of Bonn, Germany. They have been with me through a variety of countries and, of course, many subsequent trips to the Hollywood Grill while living in Chicago. I really thought the thongs would pop out under the strain of my metered slips and slides, but they held firm. My boyfriend once asked me “why do you still wear those things?”

Answer : Because they’re awesome.