Velo is the most famous drummer of Akiyo, a well-known cultural organization on Guadeloupe. Members of Akiyo marched to the drummers tomb in Pointre-a-Pitre last Saturday and performed a small ceremony on his behlaf. The ceremony included the placement of various tokens on the grave and a speech detailing Velo’s importance in regards to keeping traditional music alive when drumming was banned on the island.
Notice the old woman in the just behind the grave. She is ever-present at Akiyo events and we are always amazed at her enthusiasm and energy. The fact that she drinks, smokes, and pinches young women’s rear ends just makes it all the more funny.
The list of items you can derive from a coconut tree (“pyekoko” in Creole) seems never-ending. I’ve noted the use of coconut milk in cooking and you should already know that mixing coconut cream with fresh pineapple and rum makes a mean Pina Colada. I’ve previously mentioned coconut water along with coconut sorbet and personally have a growing collection of bracelets, earrings and other accessories made from the shells of dry coconuts (“koko sec”). Recently, at a Creole cultural celebration I was taught to make another coconut product, a hat woven of coconut leaves.
The cultural celebration took place in Petit Bourg and was hosted by a local teachers union. The event featured various areas where attendees could partake in different activities such as toy making, basket weaving, and, of course, hat making. The gentleman at the hat station was very helpful and demonstrated the whole process; it actually wasn’t too hard after you got the hang of it.
The process starts with an entire coconut branch that is split sown the middle. A portion of one of the halves is cut roughly two inches more than the desired band of the hat. The stalk is then stripped down to about a quarter-inch thick; the shreds of stalk removed are used to tie the band in a circular shape. At this point, the weaving begins; it can be done in a variety of patterns. I was shown a weaving method that basically braided three leaves at a time in a circular pattern to make the hat’s brim. You separate, then gather the remaining lengths of the leaves at the point of the hat and weave downward to complete the shape. When satisfied with the downward weaving the remaining leaves are neatly clipped in conclusion.
We are on the look out for some more big branches to make a few more hats and a nice “How-to.”
Editor’s Note: I am aware that the hat I made is WAY to small. There weren’t enough branches for everyone to make a hat their head’s size; hence the search for more branches.
Damoiseau is the most popular brand of rum to drink on Grande-Terre. Situated in Moule, the distillery that produces the rum is an interesting place to visit. Rum was a driving force of the slave trade in the Caribbean region. Much of the rum was made with the assistance of mills of various types. The distillery houses the only old-fashioned, functioning windmill on Guadeloupe and provides a French-only display that overviews the different types of mills and how they work. The display also sheds light on the history of rum on Guadeloupe and the steps of the distillation process.
The actual “tour” of the distillery is pretty much you wandering around, directed by occasional signs that explain the part of the process you are viewing. Visitors definitely see how rum is made up close and personal; from huge trucks dumping loads of sugar cane into the new age mill to the bottling and packaging processes. It’s interesting to see all the machines in action, but honestly, I don’t think the public should be able to be so close to the product with such little supervision (see picture above). That aside, if you like industry, rum (free tastings!), and/or really loud places, the Damoiseau distillery is definitely for you.
Found in Capesterre Belle-Eau, there are three Carbet waterfalls you can visit on

While winding through
Editor’s Note: I don’t mean to imply that
The “Pointe de Chateau” is found at the most southwest tip of Guadeloupe. It is generally not to long of a stop, as there is not much to do once you are there. But it is a nice place to visit if you like views, landscape photos and the like. After hiking to the large cross overlooking the point, you can see for miles, a distance that includes the nearby island of Desirade.
In the weeks leading up to the actual 4 days of Carnival many cities host Carnival celebrations and parades. Organizers invite Carnival groups from all over the island to participate and give their citizens a treat. The groups march through the city and people line the streets and their balconies to watch. The march usually concludes at a central location, likely the town plaza, where one can find the bulk of spectators, vendors, and general excitement.
I live in Morne-a-L’eau and though my group, Akiyo, was marching I decided to watch the parade and experience my town’s celebration. You don’t get to see much of other groups when you are marching, so for me it was a new experience. Everyone was in a festive mood and it was fun to see my students out of class. They were running around everywhere! It was a great atmosphere and I’m glad I took the time to watch; though I did catch some friendly flak for not marching.
I had repeatedly seen the term “Léwòz” written on event posters and fliers, but never quite knew what the term entailed. I attended my first Léwòz recently and found it to be fun and interesting.
At base, a Léwòz is a coming together of people who enjoy the celebration of Guadeloupean music and culture. It is an all-night drum/dance fest that starts around 9:00 and can end as late as 6:00 in the morning. Food and drinks are sold, people socialize, dance, and generally have a good time. Traditional Gwo-Ka music is played and continues almost non-stop with drummers ans singers switching off as needed. Anyone can dance in the middle of a huge circle created by the crowd, as sown in the video above.
So my legs still hurt from this week’s Carnival march. The Akiyo group marched from Point-a-Pitre to Baie-Mahult and back, which is about 16 kilometers or 10 miles!
The costumes this week were made from dried banana leaves and people wore bull horns (or something of that shape). There were some really interesting variations on the costume. Unfortunately my digital camera of 4 years died on me Sunday night so I have no new photos. I don’t even have a picture of my own costume! Anywhoo, I included some images from 2006 so you get the general idea.